rinidad is on the southern Caribbean coast, opposite Havana, and is a UNESCO historical site.  It is a perfectly preserved testament to the wealth and style of the 19th century sugar barons who built the city.  These barons were Frenchmen who fled Haiti during the slave revolt and set up quarters on the neighboring isle of Cuba.  Our prior host had recommended a casa particular here, and our new host met us at the bus as we disembarked.

We stayed three glorious days in Trinidad in the house of a man named Felix Bombino.  He was a cool cat, about 55, with a wife and three young kids.  His two grown sons were in a different town waiting to immigrate to the US.  He had previously worked as a social science teacher in grade school, then as a Chief administrator of various schools, and now ran an orphanage with about eight kids. 

Several years prior, his roof in their humble, one-story, one-bedroom house started to cave in and he applied for aid from the government. As no help was forthcoming, he set about to earn the money by moonlighting.  He went to the market, bought fresh fruits, and sold them in the street, going from house to house.  Starting with bananas, he diversified with pineapple, mango, and others.  Over time he saved enough to buy building materials and hire a helper, and he fixed the roof and then built a room on top of the house – a second story.   He then rented the room, and with the money he earned he built another room, a second story balcony, two more bathrooms, a kitchen, and stocked the place with furnishings, air-conditioners, refrigerators, and then livened it up with fresh paint.  He and his four other family members live downstairs in the original one-bedroom, and he appears to be making a good living. He was very friendly, extremely hospitable, and cooked delicious meals for the guests. 

In the adjoining room there was a talkative hippie couple from Milwaukee with their hyperactive 8-year-old son.  We took our meals together and regaled each other with tales of traveling in Cuba and other exotic locales.  Bambino was always around sharing stories about his other guests, who were many and varied.  There was a strange preponderance of teachers as guests, so we felt right at home.  It appeared that about 50% of his guests were teachers from all over the globe, but mostly Europe.

His meals were lavish affairs, with a diverse buffet of fish or lobster, rice and beans, fried plantains, plates of various veggies and fruits, fresh mango or guayaba juice, and the ubiquitous after-dinner espresso-strength coffee.  Then we’d all share some of our dollar-a-bottle rum, and make plans for the evening.

The music in Trinidad, as in Havana, and I would imagine all parts of the island, was fantastic.  We went to the local house of trova, where we were serenaded by a continually changing ensemble of musicians playing the most romantic, countrified Spanish music you can imagine.  Everyone was talented, and it certainly wasn’t wasted on the tourists, who were all well versed in Latin dance moves and Buena Vista Social Club sounds.

        The natural highlight of our trip was a cruise to one of the many keys off the Cuban coastline.  We motored over to a tiny island surrounded by black coral reef about 12 kilometers from Trinidad’s beaches with three Cuban guides and some fellow white people.  Super white.  The two young Scottish girls had obviously seen little sun in their lives, and had turned a painful shade of lobster by the time we were back on the mainland. 

We snorkeled around a reef at the key, and it was brilliant.  The water temperature was about bathwater, the visibility infinite, the color of the ocean turquoise, and we saw thousands of beautiful sea creatures.  After an hour of luxurious paddling about, we retired to the key to a lunch of lobster and fruit, and headed back to civilization.  It’s noteworthy that lobster is prohibited from the local consumption, as the government wants it all to be exported for the obvious financial benefit.  However, the tasty little crustaceans are everywhere, and the law is quite easily circumvented, to the pleasure of both locals and tourists alike.

        After a wonderfully relaxing stay in Trinidad, we hired a taxi and sped through the charming countryside, back to the history and hustle of the capital.  On our journey, our taxi driver filled us in on Cuban history, and shared several insightful comments on Cuban-American relations.  His opinion of our foreign policy was understandably pessimistic, but he was very interested in learning English and was always cordial with us.  This is typical of many Cubans.  They are disgusted by the shameful history of US foreign policy in Latin America, but are truly interested in our culture and in making friends with the US, to the betterment of their island nation.  They are a well-educated, friendly, talented, warm, and attractive people, and any opportunity to visit this unique place should not be missed.  Viva Cuba!

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